Day 52 -- Paris

Saturday, 27 October 2023

Another rainy day. 

After more than 50 days in France, I figured I should get a nice, fresh baguette from the bakery (boulanger) around the corner. I had one a few days ago from a grocery store (Carrefour), and it was good, but this one was much fresher.

My first fresh baguette, from La Pralinoise

I then headed to lunch at O'Papa. I had been looking at this place for a week or so -- and enjoying the wonderful smells while walking past -- and I was nervous about having to order at a sit-down restaurant. But this is my last chance, so I'm gonna face my anxiety and make it happen. It's billed as a barbeque place, but I think that might have been a translation issue. They focus on meat, but not necessarily barbeque style. They close for the afternoon, so I made sure to get there at lunchtime. 

I had the mixed grill, which included butter beef, marinated chicken, merguez sausage, and a lamb chop; and mashed potatoes; and a boursin cheese sauce. And homemade bread.

The mixed grill at O'Papa

You know what they say about saving the best for last? Well, I did so inadvertently. After over seven weeks in France, this, on my last day, was the best meal I've had. Fantastic meats, fantastic sauce, fantastic potatoes, fantastic bread, and fantastic service. If I was in France long enough for another meal, I would come right back here tomorrow.

After lunch I walked more, finishing several streets on the L'Île-Saint-Denis, and a few in Saint Denis. (Eight more streets completed.)

Houseboats on the Seine

I timed things to get to the Basilica of Saint-Denis in time to spend a bit of time there before heading to the nearby stadium for the final match. The basilica contains the tombs of nearly every king of France from the 10th century to the mid-19th century. I got close enough to see the building, but the Rugby Village was in the way. I figured the entrance must be on the other side, so I walked about three-quarters of the way around the building before hitting a wall. I backtracked to just about where I started, and found that the entrance was, indeed, contained inside the Rugby Village. Quite unexpected.

I got inside only to find that the tombs were already closed. I thought I had another hour. I either misread their website or their website was in need of updating. The attendant was very nice, and we were able to figure out that I had relied on a travel review site that had their summer hours listed without mentioning that the hours varied seasonally. All I got to see was the main room (the nave) of the cathedral.

The Basilica of Saint-Denis, with the Rugby Village in front of it

The nave at the Basilica of Saint-Denis

It was still an impressive building, but missing out on much of the historically significant part of it was disappointing. I wish I could remember the travel site that didn't mention the seasonal hours so I could suggest an edit. [I found it later. UrbanInsider.com. I've left a comment suggesting they not publish the hours, and instead direct people to the official site to get the most accurate information.]

I spent some time wandering around the Rugby Village and then walked the last kilometer or so to the stadium to meet Justin and his family before the New Zealand v. South Africa match.

The town hall of Saint Denis

After the match, I walked back to the hotel, arriving well after midnight. I've got to get up at 5:30 a.m. tomorrow morning. Wish me luck.

...doug